What is the Queen Charlotte Track?
The Queen Charlotte track is a stunning hiking trail within the Marlborough Sounds on the South Island of New Zealand. It’s a track that takes most people 3-5 days, covering 73km. Unlike other trails in New Zealand, there are no huts along the way. But there are lots of nice campsites to pitch a tent, as well as a few private lodges.
Where is the Queen Charlotte Track?
This beautiful coastal New Zealand track is located in the Marlborough Sounds. The Sounds was made up of low river valleys which have now been filled by the sea, creating an incredible coastline to hike along. This is now part of the Queen Charlotte Track. You can start from either end of the Sounds, from Anakiwa which is nearer to Picton, or Ship Cove towards the North. It pays to be mindful that the track passes through private land (people’s backyards!), so you should always be wary and respectful.
How do I get to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track?
Depending on which direction you decide to go, and how long you plan to be out in the bush, there are a couple of options. If you want to complete the entire trail and start from one end, you could drive in from Picton and park your car at Anakiwa while you hike. You could also take a ferry from Picton to begin your journey from Ship Cove. Or, if you’re only interested in being out for a day or so, you can access many of the bays by boat.
Who is the Queen Charlotte For?
The Queen Charlotte accommodates all sorts of people and levels of fitness. We came across families, young and old, as well as many hikers starting the South Island section of the Te Araroa track (a long-distance hike stretching from Cape Reinga to Bluff!).
This is a perfect track whether you want to take a few days to complete the entirety of the Queen Charlotte, or you’re just keen on a day walk. There are plenty of campsites along the way to pop your tent up for a true New Zealand camping experience. However, there are also several lodges and private accommodations if you’re after something a little more ‘glamp’.
We’d say this trail is for anyone who wants to relax on picturesque beaches or appreciate the beauty of native New Zealand flora and fauna. You might even see sting rays and jellyfish up close!
What do I need to book for the Queen Charlotte Track?
Ferry
You will need to book a ferry (unless you backtrack the entire track!) to or from Ship Cove, depending on the direction you are walking in. We booked through E-ko Tours. This cost us $70pp for a one-way drop-off from Piction to Ships Cove. There are a number of other companies leaving from Picton too if you want to compare prices for whichever season you travel.
Bear in mind that it is a wildlife tour, which goes for approximately 1.5 hours. We found this was worth it, as the guides pointed out sea life and told us about nature and the land that we wouldn’t have otherwise known! We would definitely book again with E-Ko Tours as they were enthusiastic and knowledgeable about the area and who lived there – like the pod of Hectors Dolphins we saw!
Campsites
Before you arrive, you’ll need to book a site at one of the campgrounds. Do this through the DOC website here. If you end up forgetting to do this beforehand, there is a box at the campsite where you can leave cash for the maintenance of the facilities. But we wouldn’t recommend this, especially in the high season over summer. You might miss out on a site! If you need help choosing where to stay, we talk about which campgrounds we stayed at when we did the track later on. If you’re thinking you’d like a little luxury and want to book one of the private campsites or lodges, this needs to be done directly with the lodge and not DOC.
Useful links: Track brochure, Track map with times
The Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative (QCTLC) Pass
Because the track goes through private land, you’ll need to purchase a QCTLC Pass. This helps pay for the maintenance of the track. You can either purchase it online through their website, or you can purchase one in person at an i-Site in Picton. A 5-day pass is $30pp.
When is the best time of year to walk the Queen Charlotte Track?
Summer is both the best and busiest time to hike The Queen Charlotte track. While it is open year-round, the beautiful bays scattered along the trail make it the ideal summer activity! Because it’s so busy during this period, there are restrictions for cyclists so as to give priority to the hikers.
However, we were on the trail a week before New Years, and it ended up raining every morning we were there. It did get warm and sunny later in the day, so you’ve got to be prepared for all types of weather whatever time of the year you go!
Is the water safe to drink?
DOC recommends that you boil, filter or treat your water before consuming it. There are signs up at all of the water taps that say this, so do otherwise at your own risk!
Do I need to go with a guide?
There’s really no reason to go with a guide unless you want to! The track is clearly marked and well-maintained. It’s also a very busy track with lots of people so you don’t need to worry about getting lost. If you are considering walking this track, a helpful tip would be to download the Te Arora Trail app. Here, The Queen Charlotte track is mapped out and will work with your phone navigation even without reception. Helping you to stay on track!
5 days on the Queen Charlotte
Day 1: 2hr, 4.5km From Ships Cove to Schoolhouse Bay
We left Picton at 8:30 am for the first ferry drop-off of the day. Going the week before New Year’s meant the boat was packed! The ferry tour took around an hour and a half, taking us through the Marlborough Sounds where the tour guide pointed out seals, native birds and Hectors Dolphins. They even gave us a bit of info on each as we passed them, so it was educational as well as stunning!
We were then dropped off at Ship Cove, the start of the Queen Charlotte track. There were lots of people on boat trips and doing short day walks so it was pretty busy! Plus the flushing toilets probably made people feel safe…
There are signs and plaques around the beginning of the track, providing walkers with lots of information and history of the area before you start your hike.
From here we made our way to Schoolhouse Bay. This took us around an hour to reach as it was just under 5km away. From the start, the track climbs slowly to a pretty impressive lookout and then down into the Bay. The Bay had plenty of campsites, some right by the beach and a few further up and sheltered by native bush. It was a great spot to swim if the weather was warm enough (and if not, we always love a cold plunge!), just make sure to watch out for sting rays!
From here it’s about a 20-minute walk to Revolution Bay where they have a small shop selling vegan ice cream and hotchips if you feel like a treat! This is a private campground but is a nice option if you want to walk a little further for your first day.
Day 2: 7hr, 22km School House Bay to Camp Bay
On our second day, we walked from Schoolhouse Bay to Camp Bay, which ended up being our longest walk. It took us around seven hours to reach the next site! It was pretty muddy and slippery terrain due to the morning showers which didn’t help. So we took it easy and made the most of the benches along the way and the crazy beautiful viewpoints. Camp Bay had a handy cooking shelter which meant we didn’t have to cook in the rain. This campsite was right next to the beach so it was a bit rocky when it came to sleep time.
Day 3: 3hr, 8km Camp Bay to Bay of Many Coves
Bay of Many Coves was the most beautiful campsite we stayed at. While it’s not by the beach, it’s higher up in the hills so you get a magnificent view of the bays. And plenty of spots to hang a hammock! This could actually be a good idea to avoid the Wekas (native bush chickens as we like to call them) because there are lots of those pesky birds here! There were lots of campsites in this area, so options to be a bit more sheltered under the trees further back, or closer to the edge of the hill. Another great cooking shelter for all weather! This was an easy day of walking.
Day 4: 5hr, 15km Bay of Many Coves to Cow Shed Bay
On the way to Cow Shed Bay, we walked past Black Rock Campsite which is another awesome campsite high up the hill with amazing views. Cow Shed is ten minutes or so off the main track, where the turn-off is well signposted. It’s a steep climb back up to the track but the campsite is totally worth staying at.
Cow Shed Bay was the biggest campsite we stayed at and was right by the beach. It’s accessible by road and there is a great cooking shelter with…wait for it… flushing toilets! There is also a bit of weak internet reception here, and you can get it on and off across the trail but it’s definitely not reliable.
Day 5: 6hr 20km 5 Cow Shed Bay to Anakiwa
On our last day, we walked out from Cow Shed Bay to Anakiwa. According to DOC this was an eight-hour hike, but it only ended up taking us six. The walk itself was undulating and pretty easy-going, which was a nice way to end our hike!
Some of the best views of the track are in this section of the trail, so take your time and appreciate those views! It gets a bit busier around here as it’s close to the end of the track, and people are going over to Davies Bay – a good spot to swim and cool off!
The track finishes at Anakiwa, a cute small-batch town well worth staying in if you have the time.
Camping vs Private Lodges?
There are lots of private lodges along the track which is a great alternative to camping if you don’t own a tent or want a more comfortable holiday. Keep in mind this will be much more expensive than tenting! We camped the whole time and loved it. In fact, we encourage it! You get the full native New Zealand bush experience – we only got a little wet!
Furneaux is a popular lodge to stay at, and they do have dorm options that are slightly cheaper than their private, premium rooms. Revolution Bay is another good option if you are not so keen on pitching up a tent. They offer a selection of private accommodation.
Can I bike the track?
Yes! The Queen Charlotte track is accessible for bikes, and therefore super popular with cyclists. Just double-check the DOC website before booking anything, as there are some restrictions on cycling during the peak summer season.
The Queen Charlotte track Summary
The Queen Charlotte track is a spectacular track with breath-taking views of the Marlborough Sounds. Whether you do a short day trip, or the full five-day hike, even just a second in the Sounds is worth your time.
Thanks for reading our guide to the Queen Charlotte track!
If you are keen to do more multi-day hikes in the area check out our guide to the Abel Tasman Coastal Great Walk. We have you sorted for vegan food in Nelson and beyond check out our guide to vegan food in Golden Bay!
